The Other Times I Get to Surf

5 08 2012

Yesterday I got to surf with my daughter, Elizabeth. I wrote about my newest longboard last week and the recipient of my old ride was Elizabeth. She was riding a 7’9″ BiC Wahine model tri-fin. I gave her my 9’0″ Walden Magic 3 because it’s a truer longboard than the fun shape she was riding and I thought she might have more fun catching waves with it.

I had 3 or 4 spots picked out to take her: El Porto was small enough with water temps near 70; Sunset Point was similar – both places would have crazy traffic there and back; Malibu was looking good – small, but crowded and trunk-able; and C Street in Ventura where the water temps were 10 degrees cooler than Porto.

When I get up at 4 am to surf it’s a lot easier to pick a spot based on size and other factors without so much considering the traffic and crowd. Sure, plenty of surfers get up early, but the reality is, the later in the morning it gets the more cars there are at the many surf spots. Especially on a Saturday in August!

I can’t make my daughter get up at 4 am to surf. Her internal clock isn’t like mine, though she will get up that early to make money as in watching Gooch’s kids. However, I did wake her up at 9 am so we could be in the water somewhere by 11.

The tide was coming up to almost 5 ft. around 11:45 and that was also going to be a factor. As I watched the cameras throughout the morning, Sunset (my first choice) was starting to get washed out. I didn’t want to fight the 405 to Porto and back and Malibu probably wouldn’t have any parking by 9 am let alone by 10:30 when we would have arrived.

I threw the boards on the car and pointed it towards Ventura. Believe me, it was going to be affected by the tide, too, but I knew we would find something.

C Street is a nice little point break in Ventura, near the Fairgrounds. I’ve written previously about it: my near death experience happened there as well as the day my perspective of teachers changed. I have many fond memories of well overhead surf there as well as barely waist high surf. In fact, my last surf with Elizabeth was also there.

It was small, though not as small as the last time we surfed it. Waist high waves were the norm on sets and every 20 plus minutes or so a rogue waist plus high wave would roll in.

It was overcast when we arrived so we both wore full suits. Once the sun came out, though, that was overkill. Spring suits would have been a good choice. We still had a great time.

There were a lot of “less experienced” surfers out, but they were all being helped by the more experienced. It was fun being there with Elizabeth and watching other dads and friends help their protege’s catch waves.

I did push Elizabeth into a couple of waves, but she also caught a few on her own. In fact, here best wave was her last one and as I cheered from a distance, “paddle, paddle, paddle!” she caught it and went 50 yards. It was awesome to see here enjoying her “new to her” longboard.

Another fun sight was a tandem couple that was out practicing, Chris and Jen. It was Jen’s second time out there doing tandem, but it looked like they were having a lot of fun. I got a couple of shots on the GoPro.

All in all it was a good day to surf. I had fun figuring out my new board and I know Elizabeth had fun figuring out hers.

Until next week, thank you and God bless.

Surfer Yoda




One response

5 08 2012
Baby Gorilla

C-street is one of my favorite spots when crowd factor is low. It was one of my solitary learning spots when I first moved to so-cal. Of course, nothing replaces Mondos as my most sentimental breaks. It’s where I learned to surf at 30 years old on an extremely long and heavy board. Since then, I’ve had the pleasures of surfing all over so-cal and elsewhere (Mexico, Waikiki, Australia, and Brazil). If anyone is dreaming of learning to surf, just remember that you’re never too old!

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