A Better Day For the New Longboard

13 01 2013

I’ve been surfing a lot lately. I’m appreciative of that. I wish I could go way more than I do, but, after yesterday, I’m back to every two weeks. I’m thankful for what I do get to do, so I’m not complaining.

Yesterday’s forecast wasn’t much different than last week’s. The down side was the 6 foot plus high tide at 9 am. So instead of taking a chance that Porto would really only be chest high (it’s been bigger than the forecast) I called for us to meet up at my favorite surf spot. (It’s all of our favorites, but I claim it.) 😉

The weather was something else! I awoke to 30 degree temps in my neighborhood and ice on my car! The water temp was reported to be 51 at Zuma by the Los Angeles County Lifeguards phone surf report. Granted, if the air temps were in the 30’s, then 51 should feel pretty good! But seriously, that’s cold!

Baby Gorilla, Gooch, Rip Van Ronnie, Uncle Chris, and others were out for various reasons. I met the Rev and Spock down there.

The surf wasn’t that impressive. The tide was already nearing 4 feet at 6:30 and the swell wasn’t big enough to keep it from washing out at our favorite spot.

We checked Leo Carrillo, and it too was not happening, though probably surfable. Zuma was too dark to gauge as I drove by, but I’m sure it would have worked. So we check County Line before deciding to head to Zuma.

County really wasn’t looking that great, but the sets were looking nice enough out at the point. The beach break part of it was breaking right on shore, so we decided that we were going to surf the point.

County Line has more than the point to offer and while it’s slightly better than our favorite surf spot, it can have 30 to 100 surfers out, easy. Our favorite spot might have just us out there a lot of the time, up to 20.

This day, though, only one other sole paddled out before we did and with the 3 of us, that made a total of 4 surfers out at County Line.

It was a perfect day to try my new longboard, especially after not catching very good larger waves last week on it. I got to give it a good working over yesterday and was very stoked at its capabilities.

I admit I was a little leery of its nose riding capabilities, but the first time I got up there it was just like my previous 9’0″ Walden; a good nose rider.

It was better than the Tyler at my style of surfing. It was loose, too. The waves weren’t the greatest, but they were good enough for me to see that I’m going to like this board.

Spock and the Rev had a great time, too.

Afterwards, we hit Lilly’s for our after surf breakfast burrito. That is truly one of our favorite after surf meals and it really hits the spot, especially as cold as it was yesterday.

Until next time, thank you and God bless.

Surfer Yoda

PS – Sorry for the delay in posting, I was at a an overnight banquet in Newport Beach and my wife and I enjoyed breakfast and the town of Huntington Beach.




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