Too Much Fun!!

13 10 2013

I know I repeat myself a lot in this blog, I’m guessing. However, it bears repeating that I’m always so stoked to hit the water.

Take, for instance, the trip two weeks ago to San O: On Monday I was still basking in the glow of the stoke that I had taken in still from only a couple of hours of surfing two days prior. That kind of thing is way too cool. Who needs to wreck it by taking drugs or drinking too much? Seriously, that is something that happens to me.

And as of today? Well lets just say yesterday was too much fun!!

When I looked at the surf forecast last Sunday Swell Watch was forecasting up to chest high waves for south facing beaches. I was stoked because I was headed to Chicago for a few days and though at the time I didn’t know what to expect in Chicago, if it wasn’t that great I had something to look forward to. By Tuesday’s and Thursday’s report, nothing had changed: up to chest high at south facing beaches.

Chicago was actually great. I work for a great company and I love the vision our corporate headquarters (based in Rosemont, IL) has. So even though it was a very full three days (travel and meetings Monday, meetings Tuesday, and meetings and travel Wednesday) I was coming home excited for the company I work for.

That said, the best day at work never beats the worst day surfing. It’s just a fact. So looking forward to the possibility of swell and even somewhat warm water temps (maybe up to 63 at my favorite spot) made for some “I’m going to Disneyland” type feelings inside on Friday night when I went to bed.

It was really turning into a small crew, too: Baby Gorilla had to go to Brazil; Uncle Chris was going fishing; the Rev was feeling ill; Rip Van Ronnie had the week from hell I found out later, but since his cell didn’t work, we never connected; and no one else really got back to me to surf. As far as I knew, it was Spock, the Sailor and myself. Gooch was maybe coming back from August shoulder surgery next time we surfed, so just the 3 of us.

When I left my house at 5 am my intent was to look at Zuma in the dark before arriving at our favorite undisclosed spot (or Dagobah, as I now call it). I really like Zuma and though I had both my longboard and shortboard, I wanted to ride my shortboard. Though it was still pitch black at 6 am when I arrived, you could tell there were waves there. Every bit the chest high forecasted for a south facing beach in the Malibu area.

I went ahead and drove up to Dagobah, kind of seeing other spots and how cars were lining up already in the dark. Powder was already there waxing his board (Powder is an honorary member of our crew, but he never joins us for breakfast because he surfs all day). We had the usual talk, but it was apparent we were all going out at Dagobah, Yoda’s home planet of exile. 🙂

Guess who showed up with us?! Gooch!! Turns out this was the weekend he was cleared to surf again! So it was Powder, Gooch, Spock, the Sailor and myself to ourselves for a little bit before the sun came up. And Dagobah did not disappoint.

I carried both boards down the cliff, but I only rode the short Quad Fish. The surf was absolutely perfect with the tide and it was a little bigger for those of us under the 5’10” mark. I got Powder on one that looked just slightly over his head, which means maybe chest high if you’re 6’6″, which none of us are.

It was so, so fun. I never once thought about grabbing my longboard, something I usually switch over to when the crowd starts to thicken (because I can catch more waves that way). It was a good crowd, though, too. Respectful and not dropping in on everyone.

Gooch was out first, which is understandable. He caught a lot of waves, though. Powder switched shortboards in the middle of the session. Spock and the Sailor were in the water almost to the point I had finally gotten out so we could go grab our favorite breakfast burrito. All in all it’s one of those days I’ll be basking in until at least Monday!

Just the four of us (without Powder) headed to Lily’s and enjoyed that savory delight known as a breakfast burrito. They just do it right there.

I hope you get that kind of stoke in whatever it is that you call your verb.

Take care and God bless.

Surfer yoda




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