Too Much Fun!!

I know I repeat myself a lot in this blog, I’m guessing. However, it bears repeating that I’m always so stoked to hit the water.

Take, for instance, the trip two weeks ago to San O: On Monday I was still basking in the glow of the stoke that I had taken in still from only a couple of hours of surfing two days prior. That kind of thing is way too cool. Who needs to wreck it by taking drugs or drinking too much? Seriously, that is something that happens to me.

And as of today? Well lets just say yesterday was too much fun!!

When I looked at the surf forecast last Sunday Swell Watch was forecasting up to chest high waves for south facing beaches. I was stoked because I was headed to Chicago for a few days and though at the time I didn’t know what to expect in Chicago, if it wasn’t that great I had something to look forward to. By Tuesday’s and Thursday’s report, nothing had changed: up to chest high at south facing beaches.

Chicago was actually great. I work for a great company and I love the vision our corporate headquarters (based in Rosemont, IL) has. So even though it was a very full three days (travel and meetings Monday, meetings Tuesday, and meetings and travel Wednesday) I was coming home excited for the company I work for.

That said, the best day at work never beats the worst day surfing. It’s just a fact. So looking forward to the possibility of swell and even somewhat warm water temps (maybe up to 63 at my favorite spot) made for some “I’m going to Disneyland” type feelings inside on Friday night when I went to bed.

It was really turning into a small crew, too: Baby Gorilla had to go to Brazil; Uncle Chris was going fishing; the Rev was feeling ill; Rip Van Ronnie had the week from hell I found out later, but since his cell didn’t work, we never connected; and no one else really got back to me to surf. As far as I knew, it was Spock, the Sailor and myself. Gooch was maybe coming back from August shoulder surgery next time we surfed, so just the 3 of us.

When I left my house at 5 am my intent was to look at Zuma in the dark before arriving at our favorite undisclosed spot (or Dagobah, as I now call it). I really like Zuma and though I had both my longboard and shortboard, I wanted to ride my shortboard. Though it was still pitch black at 6 am when I arrived, you could tell there were waves there. Every bit the chest high forecasted for a south facing beach in the Malibu area.

I went ahead and drove up to Dagobah, kind of seeing other spots and how cars were lining up already in the dark. Powder was already there waxing his board (Powder is an honorary member of our crew, but he never joins us for breakfast because he surfs all day). We had the usual talk, but it was apparent we were all going out at Dagobah, Yoda’s home planet of exile. 🙂

Guess who showed up with us?! Gooch!! Turns out this was the weekend he was cleared to surf again! So it was Powder, Gooch, Spock, the Sailor and myself to ourselves for a little bit before the sun came up. And Dagobah did not disappoint.

I carried both boards down the cliff, but I only rode the short Quad Fish. The surf was absolutely perfect with the tide and it was a little bigger for those of us under the 5’10” mark. I got Powder on one that looked just slightly over his head, which means maybe chest high if you’re 6’6″, which none of us are.

It was so, so fun. I never once thought about grabbing my longboard, something I usually switch over to when the crowd starts to thicken (because I can catch more waves that way). It was a good crowd, though, too. Respectful and not dropping in on everyone.

Gooch was out first, which is understandable. He caught a lot of waves, though. Powder switched shortboards in the middle of the session. Spock and the Sailor were in the water almost to the point I had finally gotten out so we could go grab our favorite breakfast burrito. All in all it’s one of those days I’ll be basking in until at least Monday!

Just the four of us (without Powder) headed to Lily’s and enjoyed that savory delight known as a breakfast burrito. They just do it right there.

I hope you get that kind of stoke in whatever it is that you call your verb.

Take care and God bless.

Surfer yoda

4 Day Weekend, Not!

A couple of weeks ago I had worked a Trade Show at the LA Convention Center for my employer. I had to work on a Sunday, which is fine as I normally have weekends and holidays off anyway, so no big deal. Coming into a 3 day weekend, Labor Day being on Monday and a paid holiday in the US, I was trying to work into a 4 day weekend. The problem was my partner in my department was on vacation this last week, so I was doing both of our jobs. No easy task to work ahead.

I decided that realistically I’d still have to check my e-mails, do all of the quotes that came in, and answer my phone, but all that I could from home. A Friday dawn patrol was an easy do and I was going to surf Saturday, too.

Rip Van Ronnie has trouble making it on Saturday mornings because of his restaurant job and I offered for him to come along Friday morning. JB also wanted to surf, since we chose the ‘Bu to surf and so all was set.

RVR and I met JB at Malibu! We were there in the dark and JB was already on it. So RVR and I suited up and headed out to knee to chest high waves with 25 others. This was actually going to be a great test for me after my confession of 2 weeks ago. If I could handle the crowd here, I could handle it anywhere. I’ve been so spoiled surfing waves with my buds with only us out that it just seems normal.

Malibu was super fun for the time we spent in the water. I didn’t get as long of waves as I probably could have, but I was trying to get as many as I could and that helped take care of all of the wave sharing that happens there. RVR, JB and I really had a good time, and by the time we got out of the water the forecast for Saturday was looking better!

On Saturday’s dawn patrol, JB and I rode to my Uncle’s house and met the Rev there. The four of us met Spock at our favorite spot where Powder was already suiting up and getting ready to go down. Forest and his son were meeting us there. From the cliff it looked really good. The waves at our favorite spot can be really mushy, which is one reason I like riding a longboard there. This day, however, was one of those days that does happen, where the tide, the swell direction, and other factors I am unsure of, brought nice peaky steep faces and more hollowness than normal.

It also brought a few more people out than normal. The swell wasn’t as consistent as we would have all liked, but we did all catch a lot of waves. Some of the sets hit head high, easy. Every bit the forecast that they said and the water temp was 65. I wore my spring, something I wish I did at the ‘Bu the day before because I was so hot in a full suit.

Here’s the footy from me from yesterday:

And here’s Spock’s version:

All in all it was one super fun day. The waves were so fast I really didn’t feel I could do any walking up to the nose. I really love rail to rail surfing, though, and so I was pretty stoked to put my 9’0″ through the paces. I think in the end I wished I had brought the Quad Fish, but I have no complaints about surfing my Magic Model 3 in almost any type of surf.

After our surf was over, the tide was almost maxed, we hit Lily’s. I know that sounds like a broken record, but the reality is, she has the best breakfast burrito around, whether you surf or not. If you’re ever in Malibu’s Pt. Dume area, you must stop by for breakfast and get a breakfast burrito with bacon and lots of green sauce. Don’t be so picky you butcher the burrito. Get it the way she makes it. You won’t be disappointed.

I hope you get to enjoy your 3 day weekend, or whatever weekend you get to have.

Thank you and God bless.

Surfer Yoda

Old Friends and Head Trauma

It was a good week. I got to go up to Morro Bay on Tuesday to do an equipment survey at a hotel and on my way home I stopped at Emma Wood and surfed. I hit it for about 45 minutes, just long enough to really enjoy getting wet, and short enough to justify taking time away from work.

I surfed again yesterday, of course, as it was my usual dawn patrol with the crew. Baby Gorilla couldn’t make it. Uncle Chris was in San Francisco. Spock is in Hawaii, I’m sure the Rev told me a couple of weeks ago why he was a no show. The Sailor was doing something with his wife. Others just couldn’t make it.

So Rip Van Ronnie met me at Kohl’s and we rode down and met Gooch, arriving at our favorite surf spot around 5:15 am to check it out. Just the 3 of us, and Powder, who was already checking it out when we arrived, as usual.

Tuesday when I hit Emma, it was the beginning of a South that was winding down Friday. Saturday another South was to pick up, but forecasters kept pushing it to arrive later and later in the day. That meant that our Saturday dawn patrol was in between swells.

Our favorite wasn’t appealing, though very surfable on a longboard. However, it looked like we should at least go check a couple of other spots we just couldn’t see in the dark as we drove by them.

Powder headed to Zeroes and we headed to County Line. County didn’t look much better than our favorite, so we headed south and stopped to check Leo Carrillo. It had potential!

As we suited up to longboard two others paddled out. We hadn’t seen them and really thought we were going to be the first in the water, but Leo is also a campground so we figured they must have walked over from there. Then I noticed a third and figured he was with them.

Gooch and I were the 4th and 5th in the water followed by RVR about 15 minutes later. He always likes to wait for it to get a little lighter out.

The crew of campers was a really mellow crew and in fact, one of them wasn’t a camper, but a friend from High School I hadn’t seen in over 25 years probably! Dave and I sat out there catching waves, catching up on all those years, and reminiscing about the old days. He was good people back then and still is, now married with children. (So he wasn’t with the campers, who turned out to be from San Diego.)

As Gooch, RVR and I decided it was time for breakfast because about 7 more surfers were hitting the one take-off zone Leo has, it was time to say good-bye to Dave. (Not forever as he remembered my e-mail address and e-mailed me.)

I caught my last wave to go in and it wasn’t too bad. Smaller than some, but something I could ride all the way in. After a couple of turns I got up to the nose, lost speed and pearled it. I went under the surface as usual in these circumstances to avoid the board, but the board did a crazy 360 in the air and as it landed back in the water I was almost surfacing and one of the fins caught the back left side of my head leaving a 3 inch gash above and behind my ear.

It hurt right away and happened so fast that I actually thought the rail of the board hit my head causing a blunt force split.

As I got to the car RVR was describing how funny and cool the board looked as it did the 360. I turned around to show him the aftermath and his first reaction had me worried, but by now Gooch was there and was able to snap a pic on my phone for me. It was bad, but I didn’t need Urgent Care in Malibu. From their perspective they couldn’t see what happened.

No breakfast at Lily’s. 😦

RVR drove my car to Urgent Care in SCV and they saw me right away. They did all the “look at this light” exercises and determined I was fine, just bleeding, and put 3 staples in my head and sent me on my way.

I was able to put my footy together and narrate it, so I must be okay. That’s how I figured it was the fin that got me. 32 years of surfing with this being the first serious injury. Let’s hope I can go another 32 years before the next one. 😉

Take care, thank you, and God bless.

Surfer Yoda

Surprise, Surprise!!

This week’s surf with the crew was an off week. Gooch is getting ready to go to Michigan to visit family and would be missing next week so he asked me if I’d surf this week. An unforeseen obligation came up last week and he couldn’t surf with us.

Here’s how the week went down: Everyone was notified that the forecast called for some kind of energy from the south for Saturday; that we were surfing; and anyone in the crew that could make it, should.

It looked like Baby Gorilla, Rip Van Ronnie, Gooch, Uncle Chris and even Spock might be able to make it, with the Rev uncommitted. Spock was arriving Friday evening from his week long Utah camping trip, so really, he was up in the air. However, Friday I had been texting Michael Landen and Rip Van Ronnie of the following morning’s plans.

I awoke at 3 am yesterday, as I would because summer’s sun is peaking through the night sky enough to surf at 5 am, and went to meet up Rip Van Ronnie and Michael Landen at our big brand store parking lot to load them up and get to Uncle Chris’ for the carpool down to the beach. I waited 5 minutes after our meet up time and usually if they’re going to be late, I get a text. I texted them and took off. I never heard from them until I got back from surfing so they overslept.

Uncle Chris and I headed for our favorite surf spot to see the rest of the crew. When we arrived, Gooch’s vehicle was there and only Gooch was in it. No Baby Gorilla. No Spock.

Gooch was talking to Powder, an honorary member of the crew, and that was it. Powder was suited up and heading down while the 3 of us went to look it over from the cliff.

We suited up and headed out for what looked to be waist to chest high waves. The forecast all week was kept at 2 to 3 feet for Surfline and waist high everywhere for Swell Watch.

I did bring both boards and elected to start out on the shorty.

Surprise, Surprise! Sets were hitting the 6 foot mark, easily! For someone 5’8″ like myself? That’s overhead! However, I think it was even occasionally overhead for Uncle Chris and Gooch, both at the 6′ plus mark.

The tide was going from high to low and it was the perfect spot for the six of us that were out. Two more paddled out with us.

After a few waves, I caught another nice right that looked like I’d have a floater ending section to hit. As I set up for it I could see the lip coming toward me starting to pitch over and there was no way I could react to it fast enough to get my board up on top of the wave to float over the section. As I surfaced after my wipe out I saw my GoPro was gone! Broke the mount and was gone! Not again!

So I searched and searched, but I couldn’t see the orange floaty anywhere in the line up. The waves just kept coming, too. After a few minutes of searching I went in and grabbed the longboard because I could sit up higher and paddle faster. I wasn’t sure where I was going to have to paddle to look for it, but I wanted the paddle power.

Uncle Chris was finished surfing by this time so he stuck around on the beach looking in the water and searching the shoreline for it. I kept surfing, trying to take waves to spots I thought it might be if it were to surface inside. I caught my 3 best waves during that time, 3 beautiful head high lefts that were absolutely perfect. Such a rad day of surf!

39 minutes later, Uncle Chris found the GoPro in the rocks. It was running the whole time and from the moment it came off the board until Uncle Chris can be seen picking it up is right at 39 minutes.

After surfing a little longer the lower tide was affecting the surf negatively and the 3 of us decided to hit Lily’s. What an awesome morning that the rest of the crew certainly would have enjoyed.

It really was one of those days you tell your friends, “You rreeeaalllyy missed it!”

Take care. Thank you and God bless,

Surfer Yoda

A Solstice Day After Surf

For some reason it seems like my crew is thinning. I’m sure it won’t last, but I surfed with the Rev and the Sailor, yesterday. I knew Spock had a previous camping trip in Utah planned so he was going to miss.

Let’s see: Uncle Chris had to go to Big Bear; Gooch’s wife ended up having to work so he had to take his son to Boy Scout camp; Baby Gorilla dragged his wife kicking and screaming to see Cyndi Lauper the night before (he says it was for his wife, but we all know who the real Cyndi Lauper fan is); Rip Van Ronnie never woke up when he fell asleep in his chair, hence his namesake (he eventually woke up, but we were already back from the beach).

I let RVR pick the spot to surf, too, because he’s actually not a fan of our favorite surf spot. He’s not included in the “our” when I mention it. He’d rather surf a point break like Rincon, C Street, Leo, or Malibu. No one can blame him for that, but not fun places on a Saturday. You’re going to have to share waves with complete strangers.

So I picked up the Rev and we met the Sailor at Leo, our predetermined meeting place because of RVR. Since RVR didn’t make it and the tide wasn’t favorable to Leo, yet, the 3 of us headed to our favorite spot.

It’s officially summer. This is the day after the summer solstice. The reality is, it felt like any other uncrowded day that I get to surf. The feel of stoke and awe at the enjoyment God allows me to have playing in His creation. He deserves the glory and I get to reap the blessings. Amazing.

The water temp was at 63 on the Rev’s watch, so our spot is warming up. The surf ranged from knee to chest high for the Sailor and I, and ankle to belly high for the Rev (he’s taller than we are). There was wind blowing off shore, then shifting a little side shore (east to west at our south facing beach).

As summer goes, it seems to get more crowded and our favorite spot is no exception. There were literally 4 more surfers there I didn’t know while we were surfing. 😉 A couple were teenagers that were actually really good. My footy didn’t do them justice, but they were really tearing it up out there. Good vibes, too. The Rev made that comment about our spot.

When all was said and done, we surfed about two hours and headed to breakfast. Lily’s was the order of the day. I know it sounds like we are in this routine, but the reality is, I don’t hate that routine: Our favorite surf spot followed by a Lily’s breakfast burrito (though I had the breakfast sandwich on wheat, yesterday) is how it should be.

I’m sure as the summer crowd thickens I’ll be looking forward to winter, again. The cycle never changes. But for now….

Take care. Thank you and God bless.

Surfer Yoda

Bigger Than Expected

Anticipation is one of those feelings that can get you excited, or scared, or happy, or you name it. It can stir up different emotions to different people depending on all kinds of factors.

I was anticipating a great surf day with my crew yesterday because the forecast at the beginning of the week was supposed to be epic for the end of the week. This was last Sunday, mind you. So from Sunday to Saturday I just kept looking at the forecast for my North Los Angeles County spots. I kept dreaming. I kept picturing what board I was going to ride. I paid attention to the tide at the time we’d be there. My anticipation was excitement.

Friday was supposed to be the biggest day of the swell. I would have tried to surf in the morning, but I had a training meeting to be in. However, Saturday was still forecast to be 1 to 2 feet overhead at south facing breaks according to Swell Watch, and 5 to 6 feet and occasionally 7 feet according to Surfline in N LA County.

So as the flurry of e-mails and texts went out Thursday and Friday, the “Final Call” e-mail said to meet at our favorite undisclosed surf spot at 5 am. (That’s a 3 am wake up call for me for logistical purposes.) Low tide was around 3:30 and high tide around 10:30; perfect tide conditions for our spot! That just made the anticipation more charged!

Sometimes it’s hard to sleep with that much excitement. Like when I was in elementary school and Disneyland or Christmas was the next day. I always had a hard time sleeping the night before. It can be that way on a good swell!

It was dark when we arrived at 5 am with the June Gloom of overcast skies and to my amazement we were the first one’s there. Not even Powder had arrived, yet (he doesn’t get our e-mails or texts, we just expect him to show up).

As I surveyed it down the cliff as I typically do, I could see it looked like it was every bit the forecast at 5 to 7 feet. As dark as it was, your eyes just adjust.

We decided to suit up before the crowd arrived (I know how I write about my spot not ever being crowded, but on large swells it can get more surfers out than normal) and we headed down the path. In the crew this day were Gooch, Baby Gorilla, Uncle Chris, Rip Van Ronnie, and my nephew John joined us.

I brought both boards using my usual logic: start out on the short board, ride the longboard as the crowd thickens.

Uncle Chris, Gooch, and I were the first in the water and it became clear fast when we made it out to the line up that it was bigger than expected. At least on those “occasional” set waves. They weren’t “rogue” waves, either, that sometimes happen as a swell is beginning or ending. You could time these 6 wave sets to your watch and they actually ranged from 7 to 10 feet. That was the “bigger than expected” part.

Thinking you made it out to the lineup, knowing you might have to paddle a little farther for a set, but then realizing you have to paddle your heart out trying to scratch over the largest of waves before the crash on top of you. It was fun to watch. 🙂

The way our spot breaks on a lower tide in larger surf can be heavy. There are boils that cause it to ledge up and if you’re in that spot it can pitch you over the falls in a heart beat. I can catch them there on the longboard, but even then it can send your heart into your throat as you take off. You might be able to catch one just before that happens, or wait for the boils to cause it to break and as it backs off to normalcy, which can happen, you can have a nice ride. Most of these sets were closing out, though.

So I hung out inside having to duck dive these monsters when they did come in.

Baby Gorilla, John, and RVR eventually made it out and after a couple of hours we were worn out. I felt like I got a great work out on my chest, lats, and arms from all of the paddling and duck diving, then paddling and turtle rolling on the longboard.

We all survived. Those set waves were definitely bigger than expected and maybe as I get older I just expect to ride more perfect waves. Closeouts aren’t fun even at knee high. It wasn’t scary, though, so I guess I’ll keep paddling out in waves that size.

We headed to Lily’s, of course, and enjoyed our favorite breakfast burrito and fellowship.

The funny thing, to me anyway, is I didn’t even pay attention to where this swell came from, but it was big everywhere that had a south or southwest facing beach. I look forward with anticipation to more like it.

Take care. Thank you and God bless.

Surfer Yoda

San Diego to L.A. (Ocean Beach to Malibu)

This last week I had to go to San Diego for a Food Show. I was there to help our San Diego Division of US Foods. They put me up Tuesday Night at the Embassy Suites right near the Harbor. I love San Diego and would absolutely love living there!

I brought my 6’0″ Quad Fish to surf that evening. Dinner ran late, but there was a south swell in the water and Sunset Cliffs was closest to the hotel. I headed that direction, looked at it while driving. The tide was maxed, so I headed north to the next spot.

I had to surf there or go back to the hotel because it was getting foggy and dark fast. As I stopped to look at Ocean Beach Pier it was looking about waist to chest high with well overhead sets coming in. A little wind chop left over from earlier, though by now, the wind wasn’t blowing that hard.

I hit the 67 degree water in my spring suit at about 7:30 and did my best to stay out of the way. It was crowded and I’ve never surfed the spot.

I caught a few waves, though they seemed to break in front of me. I had a good time, anyway, because I got to surf somewhere new, the vibe was fine, and I got wet! Next time I’m getting in the middle of the crowd to get some of the better waves.

This south that’s been sticking around started last Sunday. It was best Monday and Tuesday, and then another came in making Friday the day. Our Saturday Malibu forecast was looking good!

So after getting a nice mid-week session in the evening in San Diego, it was time for our Los Angeles dawn patrol.

Rip Van Ronnie and I met our crew, those who surfed, at our favorite unnamed surf spot at 5 am. The only person who seems to beat me there is Powder and he was already in his wetsuit ready to walk down the cliff when RVR and I arrived at 4:50 am under a full moon.

Soon the Rev, Gooch, and Spock showed up and we were in the waist to chest high surf, super low tide, somewhat mushy waves.

I started out on the Fish, but the mushiness of the surf caused me to decide on getting the longboard. It was a good decision and I caught way better waves with it. The tide just needed to get a little higher for a better push.

We all had a blast and even though it was getting crowded, like about eight more surfers before we left with more looking on. However, we seemed to keep our peak to just the six of us.

After a couple of hours, Powder stayed out as it was getting better with the rising tide, but everybody else in the crew was getting tired. That happens after a couple of hours when you get all your waves. 🙂

Gooch still has to nurse that shoulder so when he went in I looked for a good one in myself. Then it was off to Lily’s Cafe & Pastries (I know, I sound like a broken record).

Today Mrs. Surfer Yoda and I are headed to Mr and Mrs Baby Gorilla’s for a BBQ. Monday is an important holiday and I might get another session with my kids. It’s been a good surf week!

For those of us in the good ole’ US of A reading this, never forget the sacrifice our Military personnel have made so we can get to enjoy the waves. They paid the ultimate price with their lives. That’s why we recognize Memorial Day as a holiday.

Thank you and God bless.

Surfer Yoda

The Board Broker

One of the definitions of a broker is “a person who functions as an intermediary between two or more parties in negotiating agreements, bargains, or the like.” http://www.dictionary.com

There are other definitions that include some form of commission and since I haven’t made any money being a “surfboard broker” I left those off. Though, I guess if my buddies buy me breakfast for finding them a surfboard that must be some form of commission?

Today, it seems, I mostly buy surfboards second hand. I just bought my 9’0″ Walden Magic Fish poly-urethane fiberglass through an ad I placed on Craigslist to sell my Tyler. If you’ve read previous blogs you know how it came about, but needless to say, it’s a used board.

My 6’0″ Fineline Quad Fish, also poly-urethane fiberglass, I bought from a friend who didn’t want it anymore. That is one fine board!

I’ve had new boards, but bargains come with buying used, or at least bargains can be found on Craigslist.

That’s how I found Gooch’s latest longboard. The second one I’ve found for him in the last 4 or 5 years. This one is a 9’0″ Walden Magic Model 3 epoxy made by Global Surf Industries (GSI). It was brand new and he got it for almost half of what it would have commanded in a surf shop! Gooch had to travel about 40+ miles to get it, but in the end it was an awesome deal on a board he had been wanting for a couple of years.

Gooch’s previous longboard (he still has it for his kids) was also found on Craigslist by me. That time he was just looking to replace a heavy, slow, water-logged fiberglass longboard. What I found was a 9’2″ NSP epoxy longboard. I believe they’re made by GSI, too. It was a super deal at the price he paid for it. I surfed it a couple of times, which is why Gooch was in the market for a Walden Magic Model 3: he got to surf mine (at the time I had a 9’0″ Walden Magic Model 3 epoxy by Boardworks [BW])while I surfed his. (This is something Gooch put together of The Rev, Spock, himself and me on that NSP board.)

Rip Van Ronnie’s dream board happened to be that same Walden Magic Model 3 epoxy from BW (they only came 9’0″), too. He had ridden one a few times and really wanted one. A friend of my uncle’s had one and at the time it was just sitting in his garage. He was riding an 8’0″ Kane Garden Orca epoxy from BW. I just asked him if he’d be willing to sell the Walden to RVR and the deal was struck, just like that!

Baby Gorilla rides a 10’0″ Robert August Mike Doyle epoxy from Surftech. I happened to purchase that one brand new in a surf shop way back when I had money. After a car change, it didn’t fit inside the car anymore, and I was probably still looking for “that” longboard. BG was interested in it because like Gooch, he had a slow, heavy, waterlogged longboard that was ready for recycling. I also happened to help him into a sweet deal on another Robert August, a What I Ride 9’6″, but that’s a long story as to why he doesn’t have that one anymore. It’s also a sad story.

Before the “Mike Doyle”, I had a 9’8″ Kennedy single-fin, regular old poly-urethane glass. Glenn Kennedy is a shaper who’s been around a long time and my uncle buys his boards brand new from him. In fact, I got this particular one from him. When I got the Mike Doyle, I sold the Kennedy to none other than the Rev. So that board also stayed in the family of friends I surf with. The Rev has been surfing it for a long time and it’s still in great shape. I really liked that board when I had it, too. The Rev also has a 9’6′ Walden Magic Model epoxy from BW that he got because he had liked my Walden epoxy. That board has had some issues and is relegated to learning to surf duties. But his daughter happened to buy my daughter’s 7’9″ BIC Wahine epoxy when I gave my Walden to her. So we keep the tradition going.

Recently, BG called me “the board broker” and suggested I write one of my blogs about it. So blame him for this one. 😉 Thanks for the ideas, BG.

I hope you find your deals and bargains out there when you most need them.

Thank you and God bless,

Surfer Yoda

NOT Desperate For Waves

What a crazy two weeks we’ve had in Southern California. Non-stop waves hitting our coast.

Last week I wrote about a time I was on a quest for waves and mentioned this current time-period lasting until Thursday. I was wrong. I surfed yesterday, Saturday, and there were still waves. That makes two straight weeks!

On Monday, I decided I wanted to surf before work. It was supposed to be 3 to 4 foot +, or “waist to chest high with occasional head high plus sets.” My favorite surf spot did not disappoint.

I only brought one board; my 6’0″ quad. Great decision. I caught so many waves and really felt like I was having a fun skate sesh at my local skatepark. Like I was riding the bowls.

Short boarding offers a way different feeling than long boarding. I love surfing, so I don’t care which you prefer to ride, but I hadn’t solely ridden my shorty in a while, so I was really stoked I did. Click here for Monday’s footy.

I also ran into an old friend from high school, Pat. It was nice surfing with him and catching up.

I kept an eye on the reports and forecasts leading into Saturday, my next surf, and it just didn’t end!

I met up with Spock, Uncle Chris, Bruce (a friend of Uncle Chris’), and I brought along Rip Van Ronnie.

This time I did bring both boards and typical of what I do I walked both boards down the cliff intent on starting out on the shorty.

My reasonings behind having both boards with me runs like this: I’m usually one of the first one’s in the line up at my favorite surf spot. I start on the short board and an hour or so later as the crowd gets thicker I take a wave in and swap it out for the longboard. It’s easier to catch waves on it and if there’s any sort of paddle battling going on while I ride the shorty I’ll usually win it on my longboard. Understand, I share waves, but sometimes there’s that person in the water who just doesn’t get the concept of sharing.

Yesterday, Saturday, almost looked like a cookie-cutter of what I surfed on Monday. So I grabbed the 6’0″ and headed out.

I rode it for about an hour and fifteen and caught so many fun waves, just like Monday. Another skate-like sesh. I had let Rip Van Ronnie start out on my Tyler so I threw the GoPro on there when it was time to swap out for the longboard.

It was starting to get crowded when I did make the change.

I paddled out to RVR on his Walden 9’0″ (just like the one I gave my daughter) and then swapped with him.

I definitely caught waves farther out on the Tyler (9’6″) and even caught one that was easily over head.

After two hours of surfing great waves we all got out and headed to Lily’s in Malibu.

For two weeks have have not been desperate for waves. I’m so stoked to have gotten two incredible days in there. Praise God for providing awesome sunrises in there to go along with it. I love being out there in His creation!

I hope you got to catch some of those waves. Take care.

Thank you and God bless,

Surfer Yoda