What a crazy two weeks we’ve had in Southern California. Non-stop waves hitting our coast.
Last week I wrote about a time I was on a quest for waves and mentioned this current time-period lasting until Thursday. I was wrong. I surfed yesterday, Saturday, and there were still waves. That makes two straight weeks!
On Monday, I decided I wanted to surf before work. It was supposed to be 3 to 4 foot +, or “waist to chest high with occasional head high plus sets.” My favorite surf spot did not disappoint.
I only brought one board; my 6’0″ quad. Great decision. I caught so many waves and really felt like I was having a fun skate sesh at my local skatepark. Like I was riding the bowls.
Short boarding offers a way different feeling than long boarding. I love surfing, so I don’t care which you prefer to ride, but I hadn’t solely ridden my shorty in a while, so I was really stoked I did. Click here for Monday’s footy.
I also ran into an old friend from high school, Pat. It was nice surfing with him and catching up.
I kept an eye on the reports and forecasts leading into Saturday, my next surf, and it just didn’t end!
I met up with Spock, Uncle Chris, Bruce (a friend of Uncle Chris’), and I brought along Rip Van Ronnie.
This time I did bring both boards and typical of what I do I walked both boards down the cliff intent on starting out on the shorty.
My reasonings behind having both boards with me runs like this: I’m usually one of the first one’s in the line up at my favorite surf spot. I start on the short board and an hour or so later as the crowd gets thicker I take a wave in and swap it out for the longboard. It’s easier to catch waves on it and if there’s any sort of paddle battling going on while I ride the shorty I’ll usually win it on my longboard. Understand, I share waves, but sometimes there’s that person in the water who just doesn’t get the concept of sharing.
Yesterday, Saturday, almost looked like a cookie-cutter of what I surfed on Monday. So I grabbed the 6’0″ and headed out.
I rode it for about an hour and fifteen and caught so many fun waves, just like Monday. Another skate-like sesh. I had let Rip Van Ronnie start out on my Tyler so I threw the GoPro on there when it was time to swap out for the longboard.
It was starting to get crowded when I did make the change.
I paddled out to RVR on his Walden 9’0″ (just like the one I gave my daughter) and then swapped with him.
I definitely caught waves farther out on the Tyler (9’6″) and even caught one that was easily over head.
After two hours of surfing great waves we all got out and headed to Lily’s in Malibu.
For two weeks have have not been desperate for waves. I’m so stoked to have gotten two incredible days in there. Praise God for providing awesome sunrises in there to go along with it. I love being out there in His creation!
I hope you got to catch some of those waves. Take care.
Thank you and God bless,
Surfer Yoda
Surferyoda's Blog 